I apologize for the infrequent posts but computers have been hard to find of late. Also, I cannot seem to figure out photo uploads to Flickr unless the computer is running Internet Explorer which this one isn´t. But nonetheless let me continue with our story. Since leaving Villafranca we have continued to be blessed with unseasonably warm and dry weather. Robin and I followed the river up the Valcarce valley enjoying the cascading water sounds and the temperatures in the low 50ś F. We spent the night at Ruitelan at the Albergue Pequeno Potala. There were four others there with us. We opted for the dinner and breakfast options which were both well prepared and filling. The climb up O'Ćebreiro from Ruitelan started out in 33 F temps and mostly cloudy skies but the weather soon improved with the clouds clearing and temps again approaching the mid 50ś. Not a drop of rain was seen. Visibility was unlimited. We arrived at the top without incident. The climb was a bit of a workout but nothing more than what we have experienced before or since.The hamlet of O'Cebriero is beautiful with stunning views in every direction. The view out the front of the municipal alberque is beyond comparison. Simply breathtaking. The village bars and restaurants were open so food and drink were not an issue. There is even a small store that if you summon the owner she will open it up for you. Basics only but up there I considered it a plus that a shop was even open. Robin and I attended mass at the village church (Santa Maria Real) which in part dates from the 9th century. The priest offered a special pilgrim blessing at the end of mass. The next day (Saturday) we work to howling winds and cloudy skies.No rain just mountain mists swirling about. We put on our jackets as the wind chill was too much for just a vest over a base layer. Temps were in the 33 F range with the wind blowing about 25 MPH.We left just before sunrise groping through the clouds that had enveloped the summit to follow the camino arrows out onto the road that led us down the mountain towards Triacastela. We found the road and a most spectacular sight. We moved along the road briskly trying to build up some body heat and before we had gone perhap 200-300 meters we found ourselves below the cloud deck. As we looked back at the summit we could see a torrent of cloud flowing up the southern flank and spilling over the summit into the northern valley below. It was amazing to see this clearly visible cascade of clouds moving at 25 MPH filling the valley below us. As we continued on the day brightened and once again temps worked their way up into the low 50's. We stopped for a coffee at Alto do Poio and dropped of jackets and wool hats and resumed our day's walk with our usual t shirt and base layer configuration.No gloves required.The day passed enjoyably as the mountain scenery continued to tantalize us even as we descended leaving it slowly behind. Mid afternoon found us walking into Tricastela after a long descent that we took most carefully. We stayed at the Xunta run albergue the only spot in town that was open. Good facility but no kitchen or common area which can be a problem.
On Sunday we headed off to Sarria via Samos to see the Benedictine monastery there. Once again the weather cooperated and we spent the day in low 50 F temps under partly cloudy skies. It was a bit of a workout as the camino on this route has some steep ascents and descents, but with the help of two huge omelette sandwichs (yes, picture an omelette slid between a large loaf of bread and you've got it) Robin and I pushed on to arrive at the outskirts of Sarria in mid afternoon where we found a large stand of pines gathering wind off a ridge and with what sounded like one long exhale we were ushered into Sarria. The night was spent at the Xunta albergue with a growing number of pilgrims. We now are moving with a group of about fourteen (not much by summer standards) but considering we were used to either being alone or with one or two others it is an adjustment.We did manage to wrangle a room that only had one other person in it so the night passed quite comfortably.
Today, finally we are getting up to date, we set out for Portomarin. The weather report was for an increasing chance of rain. Robin woke during the night and heard the rain pelting down, my ear plugs worked fine and I heard nothing. But the blessing was that the this morning the clouds had given up all the had and we walkedout of the city, once again, under clearing skies and mild temperatures. Today's walk also had some physical challenges (this is not an easy route) with a lot of climbing (some pretty steep) and a new element has crept in, washed out pathways. There must have been some relativlely recent downpours that hit this raea as the camino is in large part severely scoured out or still under water. Watercourses followed us everywhere as we searched for a bit of dry ground to walk on or at least a few well placed stones. At times neither could be found. But we coped, as all pilgrims do, and eventually climbed up into Portomarin around 3:00 PM. We have opted for a room at the Ultreia Pension, which seems very nice. We are off to Palas De Rei tommorow as our camino starts to wind down. Incredible that we are now so close to Santiago. It seems hard to believe after all these weeks. Gotta go. I'll work on the photos tomorrow. All is well.
John
Monday, January 17, 2011
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
The path westward this evening
Robin and I had a great walk today. First of all it was not raining, the wind was calm, and the temperatures were very mild as we walked ouit of the albergue this morning. After the experiences of yesterday at Cruz de Ferro this was as close to heaven as I am likely to get. One thing that continues to amaze me is the visual distance you walk in a day. Perhaps the kilometers are not huge but it is amazing when you look back and see (when you can) the ground that you have covered. Today as we were starting out the mountains marking the Galician border seemed far in the distance, yet by the end of the day we were all but in them. Amazing. So to back up a bit, we enjoyed a very pleasant stay at the San Nicholas de Flue albergue in Ponferrada. There were about 8 of us there that night. We remembered the hospitelero there from our stay in Najera. He was a very kind guy and it was a pleasure to see him again. So this morning, fortified with a couple of cafe con leches, we set off into the streets of Ponferrada as the city stirred to life. We wound our way through the suburbs and eventually found beautiful open vistas as we moved out into the countryside. The distant mountains (of this morning) drew ever closer as the day progressed and it became clear that climbing was in our immediate future. But the beauty of the land overshadowed any concerns of the effort it would take to crest O´Cebriero. For today we just enjoyed the walk, the beautful landscapes, and the great weather (64 F this afternoon). Tomorrow we will split the trip up O´Cebreiro into two stages. This will give Robin´s ankle, and my creaky knees a chance to recover. Perhaps we will try for Vega de Valcarce tomorow and then top O´Cebreiro the next day. We are fortunate that we have the time to make these kinds of schedule adjustments. So that is what we will do. We spent a very pleasant evening here in Villafranca. We found a great restaurant, in the Plaza Mayor, that was open at 7:30 when we strolled in. We had a great meal, a bottle of wine and are now getting ready to call it a day. More later from our camino as we head off into the mountains tomorrow. Most importantly, all is well.
John
John
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
The mountains approaching Ponferrada
It has been a wild mix of weather since leaving Astorga. We walked outof Astorga Monday morning in good weather. It was greart to start to see more of the mountainous terrain starting to emerge after days of moving along the N-120. Our plan was to head for Foncebadon and then make another stage into Ponferrada the following day (about 26 kms each). On the first days walk we could see the mountains off in the distance from our vantage point near Santa Catalina. We were in fine weather but you could see the mountain flanks and valleys off in the distance shrouded in clouds. It was stunning scenery after the senda march up from Carrion de los Condes. As the day wore on and we gained in elevation the mists started to gather and thicken around us finally enveloping us in cloud, mists and fog as we left Rabanal behind us. We pushed on for Foncebadon still walking the Camino and making several detours for flooded sections. The day drew on the daylight started to fade in the darkening clouds, but Foncebadon couldn´t be that far ahead. Suddenly out of the gloom I spotted the village sign and then wondering where the village was I spotted the vaguest bit of a roof line. We had arrived. A pleasant night was spent at the Albergue Monte Irago. There were four of us there that night (a Spaniard, a German, and Robin and I). The village could offer only the comfort of this albergue and it was great. They offer breakfast, dinner, and a bunk for 16 euros per person. You can just have the bunk for 5 euros. We settled in to paella, salad, desert and wine while the weather worsened. No worries for us as the heat was on (sort of) and the fireplace was crackling and snapping as more wood was added.
The next morning we set off for Ponferadda in the same weather we had the day before. Rain, fog, walking through the clouds heading up to Cruz de Ferro (the highest point on the Camino so I am told). The only difference today was a gusty wind (30-35 MPH) that chilled us most of the morning. We couldn´t see Cruz de Ferro until we almost walked into it. It wasn´t until we made it down below the cloud deck (near Acebo) that life started to improve. Robin was being careful with her ankle and I was being mindful of my knees during this long descent. In short it was a hard day. Accordingly it wasn´t until about 4:45 that we arrived at the new albergue (San Nicholas) in Ponferrada, a very nice facility. We were done in. We had been walking since 8:45 and with the weather challenges it made for a very long day. But we made it. Robin and I are both looking forward to a double ration of wine tonight, and a good night´s rest. Tomorrow we are off to Villafranca Del Bierzo. Cheers for now.
John
The next morning we set off for Ponferadda in the same weather we had the day before. Rain, fog, walking through the clouds heading up to Cruz de Ferro (the highest point on the Camino so I am told). The only difference today was a gusty wind (30-35 MPH) that chilled us most of the morning. We couldn´t see Cruz de Ferro until we almost walked into it. It wasn´t until we made it down below the cloud deck (near Acebo) that life started to improve. Robin was being careful with her ankle and I was being mindful of my knees during this long descent. In short it was a hard day. Accordingly it wasn´t until about 4:45 that we arrived at the new albergue (San Nicholas) in Ponferrada, a very nice facility. We were done in. We had been walking since 8:45 and with the weather challenges it made for a very long day. But we made it. Robin and I are both looking forward to a double ration of wine tonight, and a good night´s rest. Tomorrow we are off to Villafranca Del Bierzo. Cheers for now.
John
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