Resurrection

One of my crusty eyes managed to a offer the barest slit to the dim light of our room in Logis Meymard. I just realized that I wasn't home. Funny the tricks the mind plays. It is now day two, and 6:00 am, and we are well ensconced in Le Puy. Yesterday evening, our ever thoughtful hostess, Madeleine Déchaux, had greeted Robin and I, two road weary pilgrims, with a bottle of Chateaux Neuf de Pape that we all shared on her little deck overlooking her garden. We got acquainted, and were enjoying the wine when Madeleine, in the midst of demonstrating how to use some old measuring tool she had on a shelf, managed to puncture her thumb. We hit the pause button on the wine reception, and bandaged up her thumb. No serious damage was done, thankfully. Interestingly, she asked if we were in the medical profession. I guess she was happy with our treatment. Madeleine had someplace to be and we needed a decent meal so accepting her recommendation for a restaurant just down the street from her home, we said goodnight and headed of to what was to become a wonderful dining experience at the cozy restaurant, 5'eme Saison.

Back to today....while Robin slept I decided to make my way to the cathedral, go to mass, and pick up our pilgrim credentials. So at 6:30 I stepped out into the early morning half light, popped my trekking umbrella, and chugged uphill to make the 7:00 am pilgrim mass. There were about twenty pilgrims gathered for the mass, including one Korean. There was a definite focus on departing pilgrims with a special benediction after mass in front of a statue of St. James. The cathedral's sacristy doubles as a gift shop and is where departing pilgrims can pick up their credentials. I picked up the credentials, and managed to be back at our lodging at 8:30 to join Robin, Madeleine, and a husband and wife (Gardara and Klara) from Iceland for breakfast. They are both going all the way to Santiago so we expect to see them along the way. They left today, and we will depart tomorrow. They are very nice people, and we were very pleased to get to know them. Robin and I puttered around with our packs for a bit, and then headed off to do some some tourist stuff. We climbed up to the chapel of St. Michael on the "big lentil" , wandered the streets in the old quarter, went back to the cathedral, and included a visit to the cloister (stunning). Le Puy is a beautiful and interesting city that deserves at least an extra day to wander around. It was now pushing into the late afternoon so after purchasing some food and water for tomorrow we headed off to find a pub with WiFi. That is where we are now catching up on all things requiring internet access (including this post).

 

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Enroute to Le Puy

We are one hour from Amsterdam. The Delta/KLM ten hour non-stop from Portland was a great choice. Neither Robin or I got any sleep but the time passed quickly, and the flight was smooth. We are catching a connecting flight to Lyon and then we go by train/bus to Le Puy. If we make the connections I planned we should arrive in Le Puy about 7 pm. We have booked a room at Logis Meymard which is quite close to the cathedral and the historic town center. I just felt the power being pulled back signaling our descent into Amsterdam has begun. More later...on the ground at Amsterdam awaiting our connection to Lyon (3 hours). We are a bit bleary eyed and travel weary, but are keeping our cool even with an incessant electronic voice reminding all within earshot to "mind your step." Okay! We got it. Thank you very much.

The flight to Lyon was short and uneventful. In Lyon we followed the signs for Rhône Express (the tram that takes you from the airport to the Part Dieu railway station) and purchased a ticket at a vending machine just before you go out the door to go down to the tram station (31.4 euros for two). A half hour later we were walking across the street and into the Gare Part Dieu. We purchased two tickets one way (allez simple) and hustled up to Voie (track) K to jump aboard just as it was getting ready to pull out. Two tickets, second class, were 48.40 Euros. The train left at 2:54 pm and arrived in Firminy at 4:04 pm where we transferred to a bus to get to Le Puy. The bus left at 4:47 pm and arrived in Le Puy at 6:44 pm. The train ticket included the bus (autocar) portion as well. The bus ride was quite scenic when the heavy rain showers allowed a view. We were starting to get a feel for terrain (lots of hills) and weather (wet) and both looked challenging. Looking forward to food (not airline) and a bed. All. Is well.

 

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Departure Day

St. James the Pilgrim

What can be said about those pilgrims who are now moving towards the door, getting ready to leave all that is familiar and comfortable behind. Heading off into a foreign land and unfamiliar terrain. This is the true sense of pilgrimage. Moving out of your comfort zone, finding and embracing truth wherever it lies, strengthening your faith, and above all being good to those many in need that you will encounter. There are blessings and prayers a plenty to give pilgrims a sense of peace and place. What is needed is for pilgrims to shoulder the burden of the path that stretches out before them. Let them promise to themselves that each step of every day will be a recommitment to the virtues of love and peace that will bind them to the way they are walking.

Isaiah the prophet encourages us to....

"Seek the Lord while he may be found, call him while he is near. Let the scoundrel forsake his way, and the wicked man his thoughts; let him turn to the Lord for mercy; to our God, who is generous in forgiving."

It is with this renewed sense of being that we set out upon the pilgrim road, once again, cloaked in the hope of enlightenment, searching for the light even on the dimmest of days. Alleluia!

Peace be with you

Singing for your supper

Holy Week culminating in the great Easter liturgy is now behind us. Robin had especially wanted to be home for the Lenten and Easter liturgical seasons. She loves singing (in her beautiful soprano voice) the wonderful music of these very holy seasons. Her voice along with those of her fellow singers in the St. Mary's Cathedral Choir (Portland, OR) filled the cathedral with a sound that brought tears to many eyes. It was breathtaking. The final mass Easter morning was their true triumph. The entire choir seemed to sense something special was happening and somehow poured even more heart and emotion into the music. The results were spectacular, and quite honestly the choir saved the day as the presider's homily was a bit off message especially for a day so filled with a sense of renewal and hope. But, that's a story for another day. As we walked out of the cathedral, with the echoes of the Hallelujah Chorus still lingering in the nave, I just felt we were in a good place ready to set out on our pilgrimage. In the spirit of light and fast (well maybe not so fast) backpacking we settled on an Easter meal of champagne and oysters, with a few other goodies thrown in for good measure. The menu del dia will come soon enough. Alleluia!

As light as it is going to get

I started to organize my pack so that I could find what I wanted without digging through multiple stuff sacks to get the job done. I like to be able to sort things so that I know just what sack to reach for to get what I need. The photo to the right shows all that I will be bringing with me (see pack list). Everything goes into the 4 uberlight Granite Gear dry sacks, shown at the bottom of the photo, plus one stuff sack (non waterproof) for all my rain gear. I made one compromise to my original pack list and that was to replace the silk sleep sack with a Montbell down Thermal Sheet. It weighs 15 ounces (425 grams), and unzips so it lays flat. Later in the trip, when it is warmer, it will probably just get used as a sheet rather than a blanket or sleeping bag. The clear zip lock bags contain toiletries, first aid kit, daily foot care items (wool, tape, Nok cream), and a partial roll of toilet paper. I have kept clothing items to the minimum. I am carrying 2 Icebreaker short sleeve t shirts, 1 Icebreaker long sleeve (150 weight) 1/4 zip shirt for daily walking, and 1 long sleeve t shirt for the end of the day. I will wear merino wool runners tights under my rain pants for cold wet days, Patagonia Rock Craft hiking pants or Columbia Silver Ridge hiking shorts depending on the weather. Whatever I wear during the day I will wear the other at night. I can always wear the runners tights under my hiking shorts, at day's end, if need be. My Montbell Versalite rain jacket will suffice for a windbreaker when necessary, same goes for the Versalite rain pants. I have included a Montbell Thermawrap synthetic insulated vest for chilly mornings or evenings, and a Montbell Plasma 1000 down jacket as a cold weather layering piece. I also have switched my outer socks to Icebreaker mid weight hiking socks as opposed to Smartwool that I think will be just a bit too warm for the expected hot weather. I will still use the Injinji toe socks as liners. Due to the expected mud on the Le Puy route Robin and I will both be using a very light weight gaiter made by Mountain Laurel Designs.

This is what it all looks like when stowed away.

Zpack Arc Blast 45 L backpack

The only thing I haven't shown is the Golite Chrome Dome trekking umbrella. It will stow underneath the compression straps and sit in the side pouch shown in the pack photo above. All our documents, cash, iPad, camera, and guidebook will be carried in a waterproof chest pouch (shown propping up the pack, bottom left). Robin and I have opted not to use ponchos as rain gear and a pack cover for this trip as the back pack material is waterproof (and seam taped), and everything inside will be in in dry sacks. The Cuben fiber back pack material does not absorb water so the straps and rigging will not pick up any additional water weight. In warmer wet weather we will break out the umbrellas and not put on the rain gear. Also I have the Zpack rain kilt that I can through on if I need something more than just the umbrella. I am actually looking forward to trying out some of these wet weather combinations to see what works best, under exertion, during periods of varying temperatures and wind strength. More on that later from the "chemin."

Finding our joy

Smile for the camera (best he could do)!

The days are passing quickly by as our departure for Le Puy draws ever closer (less than a month now). We have done all the usual preparation, but at a somewhat less frantic pace this time around. There just isn't the same sense of urgency that we felt on previous camino departures. The desire to return to the pilgrim community, and walk, remains very strong, but we seem willing to accept that we cannot control many things, and if some of those things don't work out the way we had hoped, so what. That should not cause us any distress. We have adopted the attitude that all will be well, regardless of any surprises, or inconveniences encountered. It's all good. That's our goal. Now we shall just have to wait and see how we do (please feel free to remind us at some point down the track if we start grumbling). Perhaps this change in attitude stems from a growing familiarity with pilgrimage, and its attendant challenges. In the past we certainly have had moments on the camino when missed expectations unfortunately crowded out our joy. But, we learned from those experiences, and hope not to repeat them again. Our joy is found simply in being present, and accepting the gift of this camino with open hearts and minds. So, regardless of miserable weather, wet and sore feet, bed bug bites, or whatever other host of potential ailments might beset us we are determined to remain thankful for the opportunity to shoulder our packs once again and set out (à pied) for Santiago. This is going to be a remarkable journey. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Just a quick sidebar to explain the picture. A few days ago, I was out walking along the Columbia River, and saw this bald eagle sitting rather low in a tree on the riverbank. These birds are not uncommon in this area, but they are not usually seen this close to urban areas. This one remained calm as a cucumber seemingly indifferent to the restive crowd that had gathered to admire him. I (fortunately) was part of the crowd.

Route of travel

John and Robin's 2014 Camino Route Map (click map to enlarge)

I put together a rough map of how Robin and I will be walking to Santiago. Starting in Le Puy we will walk to St. Jean Pied de Port, and then on to Roncesvalles via the Route Napoleon. We had to walk the Valcarlos route to Roncesvalles (due to winter weather concerns) on our two previous caminos, so this year we will try for the (more?) scenic route. Although, I must admit we have always enjoyed walking up the valley. Once we get to Roncesvalles then it will most likely be a return to St. Jean (bus or taxi), and then surface transportation to Irun, where we will start the Camino Norte. Our plan is to follow the Camino Norte until Sebrayu, and then veer off onto the Camino Primitivo. The Primitivo will take us to Melide on the Camino Frances, and then its just a couple of days on into Santiago. This camino is approximately 1600 kms, or 1,000 miles. We have time on our side (90 days Schengen visa requirements) and will not be setting any land speed records for this route. Our intention is to savor every step of the way (and there will plenty of them). We will be looking for good spots to lay over as our bodies or spirits require, and plan on taking occasional diversions as well. At this point side trips (in France) to Rocamadour and down through the Célé Valley are already scheduled. I am sure others will emerge once we get underway. This will be a fantastic camino. God willing we will see it through. Regardless of how it works out we plan on having a lot of fun simply trying.