Day 2: Fay to Monistrol (13.5 kms)

Refreshed with a good night's sleep we joined Chantal, our hostess, for breakfast. This was what seems to be typical with a bowl of coffee, fruit, yogurt, bread and jam. We soon gathered up our gear, made our goodbyes and felt the first crunch of gravel under our boots at close to 9:00 am. Today was to be a short day, but as it turned out it was slow going. A little navigation error put us on a main road instead of the Chemin, but we got ourselves back on the path at the next town, Le Chier. We were kind of dawdling along. Thinking we need to kill MMM some time to avoid an early arrival in Monistrol and perhaps finding our accommodation closed until later in the day (usually around 4:00pm). The weather was cooperating. Temperatures started out close to 40 F, maybe a bit lower, but it was dry. I had on the same clothes as yesterday (now washed), but had added my vest against the morning chill. By the time we reached Le Chier, a cold wind arose and my rain jacket went on along with a wool hat. Clouds were coming and going trying to decide whether to soak us or not, but mercifully the rain held off all day.

Le Chier

We were making our way to a small town called St. Privat d'Allier where we hoped to find something open to get a coffee. The scenery along this part of the Chemin is pretty spectacular with a deep gorge visible off to our left. We rolled into St. Privat about 11:15, and found a cafe open. Two coffees for me and one for Robin and we started to thaw out. I am so glad I packed a down jacket for this walk. It has been used daily, if not when walking then always at night. Accommodations here in France are similar to Spanish homes in that they are made of stone, and they hold the cold very well.

St. Privat coffee stop

Leaving St. Privat is where the path got sort of interesting. It is at most a couple of feet wide, but that gets restricted to "0" as rocks and tree roots clog the path. At these points you really are scrambling to find a place to put your foot. Sizeable loose rocks add to the risk of injury. So, back to my comment regarding slow going, regardless of how fit you are the very nature of the path restricts your movement so that if you are a gazelle at heart you are a snail on this path. Rock hopping, and root jumping along we continued on towards Monistrol. As the day progressed we began to wonder where Monistrol was. We doubled checked our navigation, and pressed on. We were going down and down searching for Monistrol. Finally, at the bottom of a river valley, at long last, there it was. All I could think of after giving away all that height was tomorrow's departure (regaining all the height we gave away today...plus some) was going to be a work out. For now we are part of a growing crowd of happy pilgrims (all French) at the Gîte La Tsabone. Patrick, the owner, will be doing the cooking tonight and we are ready. It should prove to be a lively meal. Tomorrow, we plan to walk to Le Villeret d'Apcher about 23 kms (close to 15 miles). Keeping our fingers crossed as it is still early days for these two pilgrims.

Clouds chasing us

St. Privat d'Allier

Finally at the bottom. The Eiffel bridge at Monistrol

 

 

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Au revoir Le Puy

Leaving Logis Meymard

Our wonderful host, Madeleine Déchaux, passed along another great dinner recommendation, L'Écu d'Or, for our last night in Le Puy. We enjoyed more terrific food, and with a little wine warming our insides we strolled home thankful for the warm clothes we were wearing. The temperature had reached up into the mid 60's, but with the sun now below the horizon the narrow stone streets all too quickly gave up what little residual warmth they had. The flat evening shadows were somber, cold, and uninviting, So we picked up our pace for home and hearth.

The crazy jet lag sleep pattern returned so we found ourselves checking clocks and watches frequently from 1:30 am onwards until we well and truly fell asleep about 5:00 am. The next thing I heard was Robin saying it was 6:40. I mentioned that it was going to be close getting to the pilgrim mass. Her eyes, now wide with understanding, signaled it was time to go. No time to plead my case, not that I had one. We did the firehouse slide down the pole departure, pulling zippers and belts tight as we bound out the door into a bracing 38F morning, dry mouthed, hair askew, looking somewhat ...pilgrim like I guess. The sprint up the cobblestoned streets was taxing (only a 1,000 miles to go I thought). We escaped cardiac arrest and actually swung through the church door with a few minutes to spare. It was a beautiful mass. The priest was a funny guy and worked his charm on the departing pilgrims bringing smiles to faces that were only moments ago looking a bit stunned as to what they would have to do as soon as the priest headed for the sacristy. With our fresh pilgrim blessing intact we now headed, at a more measured pace, downhill to our lodging. It was then time for breakfast, lots of coffee, and a chance to discuss our itinerary with Madeleine. Our plan was to only walk about 10 miles today to a town called Montbonnet. When Madeleine heard that she said we should go stay with a friend of hers in Fay, an agricultural hamlet on the first variant (towards Bains) encountered after Leaving Le Puy. So, after much texting and calling we were set. Fay it was to be. Breakfast was soon done, packs were reassembled, and after offering our heartfelt thanks to Madeleine for being so kind we finally reached the door, stepped out into the street to officially become pilgrims on the road to Santiago.

First sign on the pilgrim road

Today, being Saturday and market day, the city was brimming with people. We didn't draw a wink, in this city use to seeing departing pilgrims, as we tried to avoid our backpacks pitching unwary market goers into the snarl of impatient motorists. Having heard no sirens I believe we were mostly successful. As we turned right onto Rue Saint Jacques it was just about 11:00 am. The day's earlier cold had given way to pleasant (60F), and rising temperatures. The skies were mostly clear. I was wearing a lightweight merino wool t shirt and a long sleeve lightweight quarter zip merino wool outer shirt. I had on hiking pants (not my rain pants), but no jacket or vest. Robin was wearing a tank top and a long sleeve runners shirt (lululemon), and hiking pants, but no jacket or vest. We enjoyed our colorful departure, but quickly transitioned to leaving city life behind as we headed out into the quiet of the countryside, and the awaiting Chemin.

Leaving Le Puy is an uphill event. One starts climbing pretty quickly, but nothing dramatic, just moderate hills followed by flat spots or gentler climbs, but the trend is definitely upwards. We purposefully chose a late start so as to have a reasonable easy first day. I think that the distance we walked today (around 16kms) was just fine. We arrived in Fay (with rain showers washing away our grime) close to 4:00 pm., and quickly located the home (Le Refuge) of Chantal Roue, one of the 30 people living in Fay. She was watching at the kitchen window, and came out to greet us. Our first day was now done. Feet were okay, legs a bit sore, but all in all a wonderful first day. Chantal lives alone in an old farmhouse, and occasionally takes in a passing pilgrim. Her visitors are few as the main route of the Chemin St. Jacques bypasses Fay (but only by 2 kms) on its way to Montbonnet. This is fine with her as she has a flock of sheep to attend to. She has treated us like royalty. Her rooms are clean and warm, and the showers offered plentiful hot water. She has done our laundry and set it out in front of the kitchen fire to dry, and prepared a simple but satisfying meal of barley soup, sausages and lentils, and a sort of thicker crepe for desert. A nice jug of Merlot was set on the table as well. What's not to like? At present, Robin and I are catching up on some correspondence, and getting ready for bed. Off to Monistrol in the morning (13 kms). No hurry, just taking it easy. We still have a long way to go. But for now all is well, and we are thankful for a good start.

Market day

Leaving town

Trail marker for GR 65

Turn left

 

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Resurrection

One of my crusty eyes managed to a offer the barest slit to the dim light of our room in Logis Meymard. I just realized that I wasn't home. Funny the tricks the mind plays. It is now day two, and 6:00 am, and we are well ensconced in Le Puy. Yesterday evening, our ever thoughtful hostess, Madeleine Déchaux, had greeted Robin and I, two road weary pilgrims, with a bottle of Chateaux Neuf de Pape that we all shared on her little deck overlooking her garden. We got acquainted, and were enjoying the wine when Madeleine, in the midst of demonstrating how to use some old measuring tool she had on a shelf, managed to puncture her thumb. We hit the pause button on the wine reception, and bandaged up her thumb. No serious damage was done, thankfully. Interestingly, she asked if we were in the medical profession. I guess she was happy with our treatment. Madeleine had someplace to be and we needed a decent meal so accepting her recommendation for a restaurant just down the street from her home, we said goodnight and headed of to what was to become a wonderful dining experience at the cozy restaurant, 5'eme Saison.

Back to today....while Robin slept I decided to make my way to the cathedral, go to mass, and pick up our pilgrim credentials. So at 6:30 I stepped out into the early morning half light, popped my trekking umbrella, and chugged uphill to make the 7:00 am pilgrim mass. There were about twenty pilgrims gathered for the mass, including one Korean. There was a definite focus on departing pilgrims with a special benediction after mass in front of a statue of St. James. The cathedral's sacristy doubles as a gift shop and is where departing pilgrims can pick up their credentials. I picked up the credentials, and managed to be back at our lodging at 8:30 to join Robin, Madeleine, and a husband and wife (Gardara and Klara) from Iceland for breakfast. They are both going all the way to Santiago so we expect to see them along the way. They left today, and we will depart tomorrow. They are very nice people, and we were very pleased to get to know them. Robin and I puttered around with our packs for a bit, and then headed off to do some some tourist stuff. We climbed up to the chapel of St. Michael on the "big lentil" , wandered the streets in the old quarter, went back to the cathedral, and included a visit to the cloister (stunning). Le Puy is a beautiful and interesting city that deserves at least an extra day to wander around. It was now pushing into the late afternoon so after purchasing some food and water for tomorrow we headed off to find a pub with WiFi. That is where we are now catching up on all things requiring internet access (including this post).

 

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Enroute to Le Puy

We are one hour from Amsterdam. The Delta/KLM ten hour non-stop from Portland was a great choice. Neither Robin or I got any sleep but the time passed quickly, and the flight was smooth. We are catching a connecting flight to Lyon and then we go by train/bus to Le Puy. If we make the connections I planned we should arrive in Le Puy about 7 pm. We have booked a room at Logis Meymard which is quite close to the cathedral and the historic town center. I just felt the power being pulled back signaling our descent into Amsterdam has begun. More later...on the ground at Amsterdam awaiting our connection to Lyon (3 hours). We are a bit bleary eyed and travel weary, but are keeping our cool even with an incessant electronic voice reminding all within earshot to "mind your step." Okay! We got it. Thank you very much.

The flight to Lyon was short and uneventful. In Lyon we followed the signs for Rhône Express (the tram that takes you from the airport to the Part Dieu railway station) and purchased a ticket at a vending machine just before you go out the door to go down to the tram station (31.4 euros for two). A half hour later we were walking across the street and into the Gare Part Dieu. We purchased two tickets one way (allez simple) and hustled up to Voie (track) K to jump aboard just as it was getting ready to pull out. Two tickets, second class, were 48.40 Euros. The train left at 2:54 pm and arrived in Firminy at 4:04 pm where we transferred to a bus to get to Le Puy. The bus left at 4:47 pm and arrived in Le Puy at 6:44 pm. The train ticket included the bus (autocar) portion as well. The bus ride was quite scenic when the heavy rain showers allowed a view. We were starting to get a feel for terrain (lots of hills) and weather (wet) and both looked challenging. Looking forward to food (not airline) and a bed. All. Is well.

 

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Departure Day

St. James the Pilgrim

What can be said about those pilgrims who are now moving towards the door, getting ready to leave all that is familiar and comfortable behind. Heading off into a foreign land and unfamiliar terrain. This is the true sense of pilgrimage. Moving out of your comfort zone, finding and embracing truth wherever it lies, strengthening your faith, and above all being good to those many in need that you will encounter. There are blessings and prayers a plenty to give pilgrims a sense of peace and place. What is needed is for pilgrims to shoulder the burden of the path that stretches out before them. Let them promise to themselves that each step of every day will be a recommitment to the virtues of love and peace that will bind them to the way they are walking.

Isaiah the prophet encourages us to....

"Seek the Lord while he may be found, call him while he is near. Let the scoundrel forsake his way, and the wicked man his thoughts; let him turn to the Lord for mercy; to our God, who is generous in forgiving."

It is with this renewed sense of being that we set out upon the pilgrim road, once again, cloaked in the hope of enlightenment, searching for the light even on the dimmest of days. Alleluia!

Peace be with you

Singing for your supper

Holy Week culminating in the great Easter liturgy is now behind us. Robin had especially wanted to be home for the Lenten and Easter liturgical seasons. She loves singing (in her beautiful soprano voice) the wonderful music of these very holy seasons. Her voice along with those of her fellow singers in the St. Mary's Cathedral Choir (Portland, OR) filled the cathedral with a sound that brought tears to many eyes. It was breathtaking. The final mass Easter morning was their true triumph. The entire choir seemed to sense something special was happening and somehow poured even more heart and emotion into the music. The results were spectacular, and quite honestly the choir saved the day as the presider's homily was a bit off message especially for a day so filled with a sense of renewal and hope. But, that's a story for another day. As we walked out of the cathedral, with the echoes of the Hallelujah Chorus still lingering in the nave, I just felt we were in a good place ready to set out on our pilgrimage. In the spirit of light and fast (well maybe not so fast) backpacking we settled on an Easter meal of champagne and oysters, with a few other goodies thrown in for good measure. The menu del dia will come soon enough. Alleluia!

As light as it is going to get

I started to organize my pack so that I could find what I wanted without digging through multiple stuff sacks to get the job done. I like to be able to sort things so that I know just what sack to reach for to get what I need. The photo to the right shows all that I will be bringing with me (see pack list). Everything goes into the 4 uberlight Granite Gear dry sacks, shown at the bottom of the photo, plus one stuff sack (non waterproof) for all my rain gear. I made one compromise to my original pack list and that was to replace the silk sleep sack with a Montbell down Thermal Sheet. It weighs 15 ounces (425 grams), and unzips so it lays flat. Later in the trip, when it is warmer, it will probably just get used as a sheet rather than a blanket or sleeping bag. The clear zip lock bags contain toiletries, first aid kit, daily foot care items (wool, tape, Nok cream), and a partial roll of toilet paper. I have kept clothing items to the minimum. I am carrying 2 Icebreaker short sleeve t shirts, 1 Icebreaker long sleeve (150 weight) 1/4 zip shirt for daily walking, and 1 long sleeve t shirt for the end of the day. I will wear merino wool runners tights under my rain pants for cold wet days, Patagonia Rock Craft hiking pants or Columbia Silver Ridge hiking shorts depending on the weather. Whatever I wear during the day I will wear the other at night. I can always wear the runners tights under my hiking shorts, at day's end, if need be. My Montbell Versalite rain jacket will suffice for a windbreaker when necessary, same goes for the Versalite rain pants. I have included a Montbell Thermawrap synthetic insulated vest for chilly mornings or evenings, and a Montbell Plasma 1000 down jacket as a cold weather layering piece. I also have switched my outer socks to Icebreaker mid weight hiking socks as opposed to Smartwool that I think will be just a bit too warm for the expected hot weather. I will still use the Injinji toe socks as liners. Due to the expected mud on the Le Puy route Robin and I will both be using a very light weight gaiter made by Mountain Laurel Designs.

This is what it all looks like when stowed away.

Zpack Arc Blast 45 L backpack

The only thing I haven't shown is the Golite Chrome Dome trekking umbrella. It will stow underneath the compression straps and sit in the side pouch shown in the pack photo above. All our documents, cash, iPad, camera, and guidebook will be carried in a waterproof chest pouch (shown propping up the pack, bottom left). Robin and I have opted not to use ponchos as rain gear and a pack cover for this trip as the back pack material is waterproof (and seam taped), and everything inside will be in in dry sacks. The Cuben fiber back pack material does not absorb water so the straps and rigging will not pick up any additional water weight. In warmer wet weather we will break out the umbrellas and not put on the rain gear. Also I have the Zpack rain kilt that I can through on if I need something more than just the umbrella. I am actually looking forward to trying out some of these wet weather combinations to see what works best, under exertion, during periods of varying temperatures and wind strength. More on that later from the "chemin."