Sunday, June 19, 2016

Come join us for a hike

We start to gather
This past weekend we answered an invitation from some Basque friends who we met while walking the Camino Ignaciano. The invitation was simple. We are holding our annual hike in Agurain please come and join us. Pretty straightforward, but not exactly. At first I thought this was some sort of hiking club and this was their annual outing, but that was not the case. Yes, apparently there was a small group of locals who use to mountain bike all around the area. A couple of these friends eventually passed away and it was decided to honor that long term friendship by creating an entity that is called KA-Hiru. The letters K and A are the first name initials of the deceased friends and hiru is Basque for the number three which is noteworthy because the group challenged themselves to bike up the three highest peaks in their region. So here is the interesting part. This past Saturday, 120 people gathered, not to celebrate an organization (KA-Hiru exists in name only) but simply to celebrate friendship, and it's power to bring people together in a positive way. That is how I distilled all the multi lingual explanations, but having witnessed this remarkable event I think I am pretty close in my assessment. The people of Agurain (which is a 20 minute drive from the regional capital city of Vitoria-Gasteiz) are closely connected to one another as a community, but they are also closely bonded to their Basque culture, and to the land. It is those bonds that continue to draw crowds of people both young and old into the mountains for a day for celebrating the friends in their lives, the Basque culture, and the beautiful land they are blessed to call home. I wish more of us would wake up and say, " What a brilliant concept, why didn't I think of that?"  As a sidebar, I found it extraordinary how fit these 120 people were. I am sure they all have TV sets and computers that could distract them, but somehow they spend enough time out and about to stay in great shape. Our group of 120 hikers ran an age gamut of perhaps 75 to 8. There were two walks available. One was 20 kms and the other followed the same route but started further along and it was 11 kms. Robin and I walked the 20 kms route and it was a serious workout, and we are use to this kind of thing. But the entire group clipped along pretty darn quickly up some steep pitches, and appeared none the worse for wear for doing it. One guy, probably in his early 60's was watching me try to negotiate my way through a barbed wire cattle fence, simply bounded over the whole thing. Yikes! I have now met superman. It was a grand day. The weather was cloudy and then the rain caught up with us and by day's end. As we picked our way down a broad rock slab, a cold 30 knot wind collapsed umbrellas, and vainly attempted to delay our crab walk to the finish and the warmth of an ancient stone hermitage that awaited us.  Friends celebrating all the things that are important to them is a wonderful thing to behold. But, truth be told, it was our amigo, Zazpi, who in his role of "master and commander" saw that an organization came together to provide hot food (sausage and potato soup, wood grilled lamb chops and custard for desert), ample drinks (keg of beer, crates of wine, orujo, pacharan, water and soft drinks, and cauldrons of coffee), and bus transportation back home at the end. All the food was cooked on site at the hermitage and the whole fiesta came together splendidly. I have attended many parties in my life, but this one was one of the best organized ones I have ever been to. Plus it was great fun. The whole thing wrapped up with traditional Basque music and dancing that I was told is how they conclude every party. As we finally coaxed aching muscles up the stairs of the awaiting buses I felt certain we all gave our own version of a blessing for the gift of friends, and the day we shared together. Perhaps that sense of joy was what finally warmed me up, but full disclosed there were some adult beverages in play as well. What a day.
Our approach path
   
Approaching the "sheep path"
The sheep path
Local fauna
A look back early on
 
 
Robin and Josemari
 
 
Shepherd's hut half way shelter
On the move again
Robin and Josemari
Cave entrance that goes on for 2 kms.
A little more elevation gain
Home at last (almost)
Let's eat
Lamb chops on the grill
Our skilled chefs
 
 
 
View from the door
Our arrival slope
Our skilled musicians
A fine day for a party
Zazpi (master and commander) closing the fiesta.
A last look
 

Sunday, June 12, 2016

Always grateful

Pope Francis praying the Angelus in St. Peter's Square
It has been awhile since I have posted, and I wanted to tie in our time in Rome, and now in Santiago, to what has been previously said. It is a coolish cloudy Sunday afternoon in Santiago. There is that lazy weekend feel to the day. My favorite local hangout, the Cafe Tertulia, has been filled with folks just passing the time of day and enjoying a break from whatever jobs or tasks await them when another work week begins tomorrow. I am sitting here late in the afternoon enjoying a beer while reflecting on this latest journey of ours. I sort of left things hanging as we approached Rome on the Way of St. Francis. I will now try to fill in the time between then and now.  Our arrival in Rome was not by foot but by train from Monterotundo. We could have managed to walk those last two days but in the end after that acknowledging that long transits through cluttered suburbs and industrial estates were not much to our liking, we hopped the train into town. In part our decision was also abetted by my previously posted comment that Assisi had seemed to us to be the sought after destination and not Rome. So, now in Rome we found our hotel, near the Vatican, reclaimed some stored clothes and shifted from pilgrim to something else, not tourists per se but something in between. We had a few days to fill so we set out to catch up with the daughter of our host in Ponticelli. She and a friend were visiting her father's home in Ponticelli when Robin and I booked in for the night. She has a nice restaurant just off the Via Veneto, and we set a course for there as well as another small restaurant where her friend worked as a chef. Both turned out to be fun experiences, and the bonus was the wonderful meals we enjoyed. The days quickly filled with long walks through quieter neighborhoods, and visiting a plethora of beautiful churches. The Saint Ignatius church was particularly stunning and we made a point to return to attend mass there. And so our time in Rome slipped quietly by and soon we were headed to the airport to catch a direct flight to Santiago.  Santiago has a special place in our hearts. We have had many wonderful Camino experiences and have been blessed to have entered Santiago after completing several of them. In turn Santiago has become so familiar it almost seems like a second home. Even the climate matches up to ours in the Pacific Northwest. All along this extended journey we have been looking forward to this month we are spending volunteering at Camino Chaplaincy at the cathedral. We settled into apartment life, stocked the kitchen, caught up with all our colleagues and generally felt as though we had never left. Familiar faces constantly appeared and in many cases said hello and welcome back. Our life here is simple. Each morning we start off at the Cafe Tertulia with a coffee for me and tea for Robin. Fifteen minutes later we are ascending Rua de Hortas towards the cathedral where we generally arrive just prior to 9:30 am to set up the Capila de la Señora de Soledad for morning mass at 10:30. Robin sets about wiping off the dust that this ancient chapel presents as a daily offering. I attend to the altar and together we welcome pilgrims and visitors who start to arrive shortly after 10:00. At the conclusion of mass there is some tidying up so we are ready for the following day's mass. Generally by 11:30 the heavy iron bolt slides across the gate and the old key turns in the lock as it has for generations and we exit amongst the throngs gathering for daily pilgrim mass at 12:00. It is a curiously rewarding experience as faith encounters the Camino experience in a endless variety of ways. Each day we are privileged to be part of the pilgrim community gathering in our chapel. There are always poignant moments when hearts are unburdened, and the often raw emotions of the Camino journey find a place for safe release. Many are the thanks that we receive for this chapel offering an English language mass, and it is just this positive affirmation off what we all do here in the Camino Chaplaincy that makes us ever grateful for being able, in some small way, to make arrival in Santiago a memorable experience for a great many pilgrims.  Happy at "work" in Santiago.
St. Peter's Basilica
 
St. Peter's Basilca
Sunday mass near St. Peter's
Tiber
Our neighborhood in Santiago
Drum club rocking Platerias
Day trip to Muxia
Muxia
Finisterre
Finisterre
Finisterre
Finisterre