Feb 9, 2013 Finisterre to Muxia: Just about as good as it gets

Robin and I slipped out of the albergue in Finisterre around 7:30 and headed across the street for some toast and coffee. Once it was light enough, about 8:30, we took off for Muxia. The weather looked favorable and it was warm enough (45 F) that we could walk without jackets. We set out enjoying the harbor views as we gained some altitude. The town was still quiet at this hour. A few farmers were dressing their fields, some were planting, but in the main most shutters hadn't been rolled up and the town was "punching the pillow" looking for just a bit more sleep. We were looking forward to today's walk, so with cool, fair weather, and bodies toned from weeks on the Camino, we moved along with a little extra kick in our step. We topped the hill where we would now lose sight of Finisterre. We took a quick look back and then plunged into the trail ahead. This walk has much to recommend it. It is almost all on wooded trails or rural roads, the views of the sea are compelling, the quiet is appreciated, the roar of breaking surf is an unexpected delight (especially before you can see the beach, and you wonder if that is the wind), and the views from atop the hill just before you enjoy the descent into Muxia are panoramic. Muxia, itself is a colorful fishing village that has the added attraction of the Sanctuary of the Virgin of the Boat (a beautiful church right at the edge of the sea). There is a nice bar in the town of Lires, that offers a stamp for your credential, and makes a perfect halfway lunch stop. The Camino drops you onto the main road into Muxia and from that point it is still about 3 kms out to the church of Virgen de Barca. We paid our visit there and made our way back into town where a friend was picking us up and putting us up for a couple of days. We are now in Coruna, and will shift over to Ferrol tomorrow. Our plan is to spend two days in Ferrol and then start the Camino Ingles (Ferrol to Santiago) on Thursday. After that it is truly homeward bound. It has been a great experience, but Robin and I are ready to slip back into our life at home (at least for a bit). Still there are some kms left to walk, and we will soon be back on the Camino once again. All is well. Off to bed.

Nice new bridge

Old stepping stones

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Feb 8, 2013 Finisterre photos

Our favorite bar

The road back to town

The albergue

 

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Feb 8, 2013 Cee to Finisterre: I must go down to the sea again...and we did

Corcubion next door to Cee

Today was a special day. Each time we reach the lighthouse at Cape Finisterre there is an elation that breaks over us. Walking into Santiago has its own special meaning, but arriving at Finisterre seems to somehow compete the journey (at least for Robin and I). We had a good night's rest, in Cee, at the Hotel Insula, got the laundry done, and were ready to continue west at 9:00 this morning. It was a beautiful morning with more sun than clouds, and temps, once again in the upper 40's. We knew from the outset that this would be a easy day. We took our time, took a lot of photos, and just enjoyed walking this amazing section of the Camino Fistera. I hope that a lot of pilgrims add this short route to their itinerary. If they don't they are truly missing one of Spain's best Camino walks.

The path takes you through coastal villages, wooded sections, along the beach, and finally through the town of Finisterre and on out to the lighthouse (faro). The proximity to the sea, the smell of salt water, the scenic views all seem just too perfect, but that is what it is. We arrived in Finisterre about 12:15, and continued through town to the access road to the lighthouse. Once we started up that road it took 45 minutes to reach the lighthouse. The climb gradient is such that you do not have to modify your stride, just climb with your normal gait. There were not many people around as we topped the hill and walked around to the front of the faro. There we spent some moments giving thanks for safely completing this pilgrimage, enjoying the sea views, and snapping photos of one another.

The next order of business was to see if the bar just behind the faro was open. It was and we stopped in for lunch and a mini (now post Camino) celebration. The quality of the food at this little out of the way bar has always amazed me. Robin and I ordered a tortilla and several seafood tapas and they were all excellent. We helped these down with a couple of beers and some fine Albariño wine, and simply enjoyed this one unique moment. We lingered for about an hour, enjoying the glow of this moment. Reluctantly accepting that it was time to leave, we stepped out into the fresh Atlantic breeze, and then with just one look back (how could you not) started our descent back down to Finisterre and the albergue where we would spend the night. We checked into the albergue and found only four Spaniards there. Robin and I will be up early tomorrow to get a good jump on our walk to Muxia (32 kms). We are currently in a bar across the street from the albergue that has WiFi. I know it seems as though we spend a lot of time in bars (I guess we do), but it is not just drinking. These are the places you go for coffee, breakfast, lunch, and in some cases an early dinner. Full disclosure there is also drinking (yes, the kind you are thinking about), but walking the Camino occasionally places one "in extremis." Under this kind of duress pilgrims have been known to take to drink (not a double sweet sherry if you get my drift). But, despite all these challenges, sacrifices, and (yes) time in the bar, we completed our pilgrimage, remain intact, and are intensely thankful to God for the strength and wherewithal that brought us here, on this day, to the "end of the earth."

Peace be with you

The faro at Cape Finisterre

A slower pace of life

"0" kms

Fin do Camino

 

 

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