Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Day 60: Lugo to Ferreira (25 kms)

Departing Lugo, Puerta Carmen

Our stay in Lugo was great for catching up on our sleep, and for just resting in general. We had a very nice hotel, with the unique distinction of having a brothel (right on the Camino) a stone's throw away. As Robin and I would walk to the hotel we could see the furtive glances, and restrained gestures of transactions in progress. All involved were old and spent, but sadly could not either escape poverty, or resist the temptation. We watched as sagging arms welcomed another client into a pillow of ample flesh, then pivot discretely, and pass through a bleak doorway into the dim light beyond. Some things, sadly, never change. But, this was not all that made our stay in Lugo memorable. It appears that some sort of municipal workers strike was in progress, and the garbage hadn't been picked up or the streets swept in a month. In short the city was looking pretty grim. Robin and I have visited Lugo before, and despite its Great Wall, and remarkable cathedral, it has always seemed as though its best days were behind. This visit did nothing to change our minds. In fact we couldn't wait to leave. Even the Camino path out of the city was a mess. Instead of directing pilgrims to stay on the sidewalks until over the pedestrian bridge out of town, we were led down into an urban swath of sodden over grown, litter strewn, muck that eventually led us back onto the street that we never should have left. We picked up our walking pace to try and separate ourselves from this blight as soon as possible. Looking back at Lugo, hoping for something redeeming, it still just looked grim, and forlorn. We walked on, not without compassion, but without another glance behind. It was off to Ferreira.

The first 3 hours of walking were either along roads or on roads. We then found ourselves following markers that led us off the main road, onto some wooded paths, and then onto some quieter roads. We arrived in San Roman around 12:30, and stopped at the bar there something to drink. A few other pilgrims we either there or just arriving. Pushing off from there we followed the Roman Road (with Camino arrows but no shell markers) to Ferreira.

The walk from San Roman, once we topped the first hill, opened up a very pleasant vista of rolling Galician hills. We dropped down, and climbed up following the contours of this very lush countryside, thoroughly enjoying the beauty spread before us. We found ourselves on rural roads that were more like beautiful country lanes. It was quiet, save for the pleasant birdsong, and the cooling breeze rustling the tree tops above us. These were perfect walking conditions for us. The temperature today was near 70 F, with no rain. Can't get much better than that. We arrived in Ferreira at 2:45 and checked into the Casa Rural da Ponte. We were greeted by Manuel (owner), and got quickly settled in. Robin and I are now sipping some wine, in Manuel's garden, and looking at tomorrow's walk. Dinner is coming up, and Manuel just threw our wash into the dryer. All is not just well, but pretty close to perfect. We are blessed. Santiago is now just four days away. A little bit of rain is creeping into the forecast, but that is not an issue. Santiago here we come.

Camino path out of Lugo
Camino path before it got ugly
Pedestrian bridge out of Lugo
Threatening skies
A patch of blue
The roads we follow
The path
Into the Camino path
Mobil market
Bar at San Ramon
Climbing up
Arrival Casa Rural da Ponte
The Roman bridge
Close up



  1. This has been your most epic Camino. We have followed your every step and have recognize some stops we have shared. the barn door awaits. Magnificent. Stay at San Martin a new Alberque has been openned.

  2. A Roman "Via" and a Roman Bridge- both are part of my idea of the best kind of walk. Buen Camino for your remaining days.