Day 37: Zarautz to Deba (24 kms)

The beach at Zarautz

Zarautz was a pleasant stopover, but a new day had dawned, and it was time to move on. We were told by the Tourist office that there were two ways to exit Zarautz, the coastal route, and the inland route. They both would join close to the village of Getaria. We opted for the inland, upper route. No particular reason, other than elevated views and more shade, but also as it turns out more climbing. But, on balance, I would still take the upper route. The climbing at first was a bit steep but then it shallowed and was manageable. Perhaps a word about climbing steep hills is appropriate at thus point. The hills are here, and you cannot avoid all of them, so it is best to reach an accommodation with the physical effort required to walk this route right from the beginning or you will be an unhappy pilgrim for many long days. Another point that was brought home to us today was that not everyone in this region is thrilled to have pilgrim traffic in their neighborhood. As we were on our last climb before descending into Deba, we followed the yellow arrows right to a tall fence that could have had a way to open it, but instead it was bolted shut on both ends. We could have peeled off our packs and found a very difficult way over, but instead we walked uphill to a main road, and I scaled over a section that was not barbed wire, and then found a section where Robin could get over. There are many pilgrims walking this route who would have had a real challenge dealing with this fence. Another issue we noticed was that the pilgrim route crossed busy intersections, and roundabouts where blind turns prevented clear views of approaching traffic. In addition there were no crosswalks or warning signs. This reminded me of what it must have been like crossing the motorway going into Léon before they built the pedestrian bridge across it. While at the Deba Tourist Office I asked the very pleasant lady at the counter the best way to exit Deba in the morning. She presented us with a map that showed the way out. Fine, then she gave us a second map that showed about a 2km stretch in greater detail. This she explained is the area where neighbors have removed Camino arrows and signage. They just don't seem to want this kind of traffic in their neighborhood. Of course, this is but a very small sample against many other experiences where people have been genuinely kind and hospitable. Just chalk it up to some observations from along the way. Despite a few challenges, the day provided beautiful, wide vistas of both the sea and the coastal mountain range. We arrived safely in Deba, and checked into the Pensioa Zumardia that turned out to be quite nice. There were at least four other pilgrims there. Breakfast is provided, and they have laundry service as well. Very nice people. I finished the evening at a beachside taberna writing my blog post, and enjoying an adult beverage. Off to bed.

In Zarautz

A steep little climb out of Zarautz

Looking back at Zarautz

Part of our path today

Approaching Zumaia

Channel into Zumaia

My girl

And me

Zumaia seafront

Between Zumaia and Deba

This gate opened

Be sure to look down

Almost at the top of our last climb today

Deba, first view

First Elevator ride this trip

 

 

 

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Day 36: San Sebastián to Zarautz (18.5 kms)

Following the beach out of town

Today we had a little business to attend to before departing San Sebastián. Robin's iPhone will not pick up any WiFi so went to the Orange store and bought SIM card for her phone. She called AT&T, yesterday, and had her phone unlocked. Once that was confirmed, it was just a ten minute process at the store to install and activate the card. We did need to present Robin's passport.

Armed with internet connection once again, we confidently left town for Zarautz. We actually started climbing at the west end of the beach at 11:00. Today was a short day, and both Robin, and I felt well rested. We had a few pintxos for dinner, and closed the day sitting at an outside cafe enjoying a glass of wine on the Boulevard Zumardia. It was a Sunday evening, and all the locals were out enjoying themselves. It was fun to just sit and be a part of that. But, that was last night and today we're back to being pilgrims. So, with backpacks snugged up we started our climb. Surprisingly, it went very well. After ascending multiple sets of stairs, the grade eased a bit, and we climbed steadily into a calm, muggy late morning. Periodically, we would Lift our heads to a cool sea breeze that reminded us that the ocean was close by. The first part of the day the track hugged the hillside, and gave good ocean views. A bit later on we headed inland and found a narrower, muddy path that led us most of the way to Orio. We stopped there for a coffee, and then pushed on to Zarautz, where we arrived at 4:00. Today's walk went a lot better than our trek from Irun to San Sebastián. It certainly was less challenging, but still tiring. We have checked into the Hotel Norte, just around the corner from the albergue. It was 40 euros including breakfast for a double room. Zarautz appears to be a clean little beach resort, with a spectacular beach. Robin and I have hung the wash on our balcony, and are now headed out for pintxos and a beer, and a stroll along the beach.

What to have

San Sebastián

Back to work

 

 

 

 

Orio

Approaching Zarautz

 

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Day 35: Irun to San Sebastián (24 kms)

Albergue in Irun

Just to clarify things, the day number in the heading marks the total days walked to date, not including lay days. We left St. Jean the day after we arrived and took a bus to Bayonne, and then changed to a train to Hendaye, and then onto a kind of metro train to Irun. The metro type train leaves from a station immediately outside (and to the right) of the Hendaye station. We stopped by the tourist office to find the municipal albergue, and the walked right to it. It is only a 10 minute walk from the Irun station. Just to clarify, there are three stations tha have Irun in their names. People walking the Norte want to get off at the second stop from Hendaye (if you want the shortest route to the municipal albergue), I believe some charts had it marked as Irun, but the station sign said, Irun Colon. Not to worry, it is the second stop from Hendaye.

We arrived just behind a couple of Irish guys, and the some French ladies arrived followed by some Germans. I don't believe the full 30 bed capacity was reached last night. However, the hospitalero, who has a room on site, explained that his albergue has been frequently full. In any event the whole lot of us got our credentials, beds and were told that the doors would be locked at 10 pm. No worries on that. Robin andI made our bunks and the headed off to a market to see what we could find to eat. We wound up with lasagne, zucchini, and some croquette type snacks that were not clearly identified. It all went down along with a bottle of wine that we shared with the French ladies.

We were roused around 6:00 by the commotion of pilgrims anxious to get moving. Actually the albergue wants everyone out by 8:00 if I understood that correctly. In any event, I am sure the place was empty by then. We set off expecting rain, and a couple of kilometers later a shower passed through. We knew we would be doing a lot of climbing so wearing a rain jacket was not in the cards. We stashed them in our outside mesh pockets just before starting up to the Guadalupe Hermitage. That climb went well, and our legs felt pretty strong. We opted to take the lower path (not the Alpinista path) to Pasaia. We just didn't feel like doing it. The views are much better, but I spent a lifetime stating out at the sea. The lower path which is marked by yellow arrows, started out pretty flat and wide. As you get further into it, perhaps 3 hours, you start climbing, and that just seemed to go on and on. Eventually, with tired legs we descended into Pasaia to get the launch that takes you across the harbor (1.7 euros per person). But , first we stopped for lunch and a rest. We are in good shape after coming down the Chemin but this morning's walk was hard. It took about 4 hours to get from the albergue to Pasai. So that was the morning bit. After lunch we enjoyed about a very brief ride across the harbor, and picked up the yellow arrows leading us back towards the harbor entrance. As we neared the end of the jetty we could see pilgrims, with their backpacks, all pointing upwards. When our turn came we could see what the fuss was about. A steep switched back stone staircase was being mounted, very slowly mind you, by all sorts who fancied a view from the top. The pilgrim contingent just had to get up the hill to carry on. So that broke a sweat, that hardly went away for the rest of the day's walk. I mistakenly thought that once on top we would, more or less, enjoy a sort of level walk around the coastal hills until we reached San Sebastián. Well that didn't play out. It was level for a very short bit, the path might even have dipped for a bit, but climbing returned with an annoying persistence that kept our breath short most if the way in. It wasn't that the grade was that steep, but it was just there, and there, and there. When do we get to go down was the afternoon's plaintiff cry. Long story short, we arrived very tired, and somewhat surprised that this first day on the Norte had been so challenging. But, we are stopping over for two days, in San Sebastián, to catch our breath, so all will be well come Monday.

On the plus side, the first day offered a lot of wonderful vistas, more from the Alpinista route obviously. The lower route was enclosed by trees for much of its length, so opportunities to see out were few, and were inland. Perhaps it was this enclosed feeling that made the lower route just feel longer. Who knows. When you are tired lots of fanciful things come to mind. Robin and I will find our Camino rhythm, over the next few days, and just carry on. We are tired tonight, but still are thankful we are here. I am looking out at the harbor (from my hotel bed) as I finish a glass of wine, realizing what a beautiful place this is. I am now sleeping.....

Leaving Irun

Find the yellow arrows

A hill to climb

Same hill

Way marks along the way

Santuario de Guadalupe

The two routes

The lower path east end

Harbor entrance at Pasaia

Going down to the ferry

Pasaia

The ferry

How did that wire get there

On the path to San Sebastián

The path west end

Arrival San Sebastián

From our hotel room, shortly before lapsing into a coma

 

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