A Good Walk Unspoiled

Friday, July 4, 2014

Day 62: Melide to Arzúa (13 kms)

Main Street Melide

As we are still ahead of our original travel plans, we decided to spend another day on the Camino. So our walk today will be quite short, only 13 kms. We slept in, had a late breakfast, and finally hit the road shortly after 10:00. As we walked up the hill through Melide it dawned on us that our departure time might place us between those pilgrims departing early, and the through walkers who would start arriving in Melide around noon. We picked up the Camino just outside of town and with it a few pilgrims. As we walked along we met several others, but it never was crowded. Perhaps our unintended departure strategy was actually working. There were showers in today's forecast, but it remained dry and cool for our walk ( and beyond). One thing of note, was that there seemed to be more new places to sleep and eat. Money continues to be put into Camino infrastructure, at least where we walked today. We arrived in Arzúa at 1:30, had some lunch, and then were shuttled off to a casa rural, Casa Brandariz, about 10 kms from Arzúa. We will be shuttled back to start our walk to Arco tomorrow. All very organized. Two more days to Santiago, and this pilgrimage (at least the walking part) will be completed. Robin is now dreaming of eating Korean food, so that means we are really close to going home. All is well.

A pilgrim's room, Melide

Casa Brandariz

Robin relaxing in the garden

The neighborhood

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Thursday, July 3, 2014

Day 61: Ferreira to Melide (20 kms)

Churches are always with us

This morning was one of those near perfect mornings where a cool temperature of 55 F matched up with partly cloudy skies (not too much sun), and a peaceful walking environment to produce a wonderful morning's walk. Robin and I set off across the world's smallest Roman bridge, and immediately picked up the Camino headed for Melide where we will join the Camino Frances. We were in no particular hurry as we planned on spending the night in Melide. We were walking alone. No other pilgrims in sight. We couldn't help but think how this will change when we join the pilgrim surge on the Camino Frances. But, for now the stillness was a gift. Our first major waypoint was the village of Seixas, where a new albergue has been opened. We walked the usual mix of roads and paths to get there. Once there we headed up to cross over a ridge of nearby windmills. This section was very nice, and reminded us a bit of the Hospitales route with its openness, rocky terrain, and elevated views. Dropping down from the ridge we eventually walked a road to a point where we could see Melide off in the distance (still some 2 hours away). The sun, by this time, had reclaimed most of the sky, and the air temperature had ticked up to 68 F. There was a cool breeze keeping us company as we walked along. This was our day, all the way into Melide. We walked into town at 1:00, and promptly found the pizzeria/cafeteria (where we have eaten before) right where the Camino Frances enters Melide. We are staying at the Hotel Carlos 96, which is down at the bottom of the main street. It is clean, has a restaurant, and a double costs 45 euros (room only). Back at the cafeteria, Robin and I had an outside table that gave us a perfect view of all the pilgrims entering town from the Camino Frances. As we ate our lunch we saw an almost continuous stream of pilgrims walking, limping, or cycling into town. Our world had suddenly changed. Not to worry. We will blend into the traffic flow tomorrow. For now, it is time to clean up and, do what we do best, relax. More tomorrow from Arzua.

Look familiar

On our way to the ridge

Melide in the distance

Camino path (senda)

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Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Day 60: Lugo to Ferreira (25 kms)

Departing Lugo, Puerta Carmen

Our stay in Lugo was great for catching up on our sleep, and for just resting in general. We had a very nice hotel, with the unique distinction of having a brothel (right on the Camino) a stone's throw away. As Robin and I would walk to the hotel we could see the furtive glances, and restrained gestures of transactions in progress. All involved were old and spent, but sadly could not either escape poverty, or resist the temptation. We watched as sagging arms welcomed another client into a pillow of ample flesh, then pivot discretely, and pass through a bleak doorway into the dim light beyond. Some things, sadly, never change. But, this was not all that made our stay in Lugo memorable. It appears that some sort of municipal workers strike was in progress, and the garbage hadn't been picked up or the streets swept in a month. In short the city was looking pretty grim. Robin and I have visited Lugo before, and despite its Great Wall, and remarkable cathedral, it has always seemed as though its best days were behind. This visit did nothing to change our minds. In fact we couldn't wait to leave. Even the Camino path out of the city was a mess. Instead of directing pilgrims to stay on the sidewalks until over the pedestrian bridge out of town, we were led down into an urban swath of sodden over grown, litter strewn, muck that eventually led us back onto the street that we never should have left. We picked up our walking pace to try and separate ourselves from this blight as soon as possible. Looking back at Lugo, hoping for something redeeming, it still just looked grim, and forlorn. We walked on, not without compassion, but without another glance behind. It was off to Ferreira.

The first 3 hours of walking were either along roads or on roads. We then found ourselves following markers that led us off the main road, onto some wooded paths, and then onto some quieter roads. We arrived in San Roman around 12:30, and stopped at the bar there something to drink. A few other pilgrims we either there or just arriving. Pushing off from there we followed the Roman Road (with Camino arrows but no shell markers) to Ferreira.

The walk from San Roman, once we topped the first hill, opened up a very pleasant vista of rolling Galician hills. We dropped down, and climbed up following the contours of this very lush countryside, thoroughly enjoying the beauty spread before us. We found ourselves on rural roads that were more like beautiful country lanes. It was quiet, save for the pleasant birdsong, and the cooling breeze rustling the tree tops above us. These were perfect walking conditions for us. The temperature today was near 70 F, with no rain. Can't get much better than that. We arrived in Ferreira at 2:45 and checked into the Casa Rural da Ponte. We were greeted by Manuel (owner), and got quickly settled in. Robin and I are now sipping some wine, in Manuel's garden, and looking at tomorrow's walk. Dinner is coming up, and Manuel just threw our wash into the dryer. All is not just well, but pretty close to perfect. We are blessed. Santiago is now just four days away. A little bit of rain is creeping into the forecast, but that is not an issue. Santiago here we come.