Thursday, May 15, 2014

Day 20: Lascabanes to Lauzerte (24 kms)

On the way to Montcuq

We set out this morning in fine weather. Today's high temperature was forecasted to be around 75 F. As we left our lodging the temp was about 55F. I opted to walk with just a short sleeve t shirt and long hiking pants. We'd were soon climbing and I was quite comfortable with what I had on. Robin opted for a long sleeve shirt, but nothing over that, and she was fine. We spent the night outside of Lascabanes and so we had a bit of a head start this morning. We rolled into Montcuq about 10:00. We made the rounds of the shops and left town weighted down with a variety of lunch items.

We settled back into our pace and shortly after leaving Montcoq we veered left and silently slipped back into the shade of a wooded path. We chugged along walking in and out of the woods, along rural farm roads, and occasionally through grasses bordering cultivated fields. The time slipped past as photos were taken, scenery admired, and fellow pilgrims met and conversed with until we arrived at Montlauzun where we had hoped to find a cup of coffee. We climbed up a long steep hill and when the Chemin path dove back down the valley floor, short of reaching the village, we decided to climb the last little bit (200 meters) to the top to see what was open. Big surprise, nothing. As we ambled by the church we spotted some picnic tables and broke for lunch. We had no coffee but we did have a nice quiet spot to eat. That was until the church bell tower stared tolling high noon. Someone must have slipped some extra euros into the bell ringing machine, as it gave out a lengthy if not imaginative reckoning of the hour. Just at the point where many were ready to reach for ear plugs instead of a sandwich, it quit and peace once again fell over our picnic table. The village was empty except for a handful of pilgrims looking for a quiet place to eat.

From here we headed back down the hill, rejoined the GR 65 and headed SW towards Lauzerte. Robin commented that the day had a bit of a lazy feel to it. I agree. The weather being perfect, and the total distance quite manageable, we sort of took our time and simply enjoyed the walk. There was no pressure to get somewhere or be somewhere at a specific time so we kept a pace in keeping with that mindset and loafed along to Lauzerte. Here we had a reservation at a Chambre d'Hôte owned by a British couple, John and Margaret a Brown. There place is called Le Tuc de St. Paul. It is right off the Chemin as you come into the town, before you climb to the village center. They were very kind and hospitable. John kindly offered to do the laundry, and then drive us up to the top of the town for a bit of shopping before dinner. So test is what we did. As frequently happens, the town square was filled with pilgrims who had recently arrived. We spotted a few friends, renewed acquaintances, had a drink and then headed off to do our shopping, allowing 20 minutes to get back home for dinner at 7:00. There are a Swedish couple and a Welsh couple also staying the night who will be joining us for dinner. Robin did well again today. She is sound asleep as I write this. I will be joining her shortly. We are off to Moissac tomorrow and will spend one night there. We have booked accommodation for the next four days, and judging by the number of people complaining about how hard it us to find a bed, I consider this prudent. All is going well.

Robin wait up!
Nearing day's end
Lauzerte main square
Pilgrim hang out
Salad course at dinner
Great British trifle



  1. Glad things are going so well for you two. If you happen to stay at Ultreia in Moissac say hi to Rom, Aideen and Mathieu. We stayed with them twice. Great spot. Dayton and Karen

  2. Just beautiful! - I can't seem to find the words needed to describe how much I am enjoying your journey.
    I look forward to each new post and the wonderful photos that you post.

    Bon Chemin!

  3. Careful, Lauzerte is where I broke a toe and had to stop walking for 5 days! Love to read your blog and the photos as I said before, take me back to 2008. Thank you.