Friday, May 23, 2014

Day 27: Eauze to Nogaro (21 kms)

Today we saw the Pyrenees for the first time

Today we had a bit of delay as laundry that was promised for this morning was still going around and around in the dryer at breakfast. An hour later the lot of it was dropped on our table in the bar where we had been waiting for the drying process to conclude. It was still wet, probably because there was a bed sheet and some towels twisted up in it. I got the distinct impression, after a brief discussion with the manager/bartender, that drying time had now expired. We did have some electric heat in the room and that is where the final dampness gave up and allowed us to be on our way. All in all, it amounted to about an hour of waiting, practicing patience. This little setback made no difference in our day. We finally walked out of Eauze at 9:20 bound for Nogaro. The weather forecast was for a dry morning, with a chance of afternoon showers. The morning was pretty mild. The temperature was just shy of 60 F. We thought we would take it easy, but somehow we always seem to walk at a default setting of 4-5 kms/hour. This is by no means a trot, just a good steady pace. Our delight for the morning, and the day for that matter, was finally seeing the Pyrenees. We had been maneuvering around fields, and roads, when I simply happened to look up and there they were. What a sight on this bright sunny morning to see that rugged range of glistening white snow capped peaks spread out before us. Our pace quickened for a bit, until we realized those mountains were still over a week away. No sense hurrying, as we shifted back to our normal pace, and focused on reaching Manciet where we hoped to have lunch. It seems to me we sat down for lunch at about 11:30. I had a salad, and a Robin had an omelette. We also were forced to try some plums soaked in Armagnac, by a passing pilgrim who assured us this treat was good for the digestive system. The rest time, the lunch, and the plums were just what we needed to keep us going all the way to Nogaro, where we arrived at 2:45. We spotted our lodging straight away and booked in. This room of ours happened to have a balcony, so it wasn't long before clotheslines were rigged and washing was hung out in the sun and gusty wind. It is pretty easy to spot a room occupied by pilgrims. We then headed off to the local church, that has some remarkable frescoes, for a bit of quiet time. As always we have so much to be thankful for, and it simply feels right to acknowledge that in the churches and chapels we encounter on our journey to Santiago. This was a simple day, yet full of wonder and majesty as this range of mountains that tends to define the effort required to reach Santiago, rose up before us. All day long we were captivated by their beauty. The white peaks contrasted against the blue sky, and the green fields was absolutely perfect. Another day that, at the outset, seemed would be ordinary, suddenly wasn't. Life on the Chemin is kind of like that, and that also is just perfect for this pilgrim. Now it's off to bed...

Following the GR 65
Quite tranquil
Robin getting ready to go, after lunch.
Leaving Manciet
The GR alongside a field


Corn getting started
Approaching Nogaro




  1. That little church, with those beautiful thick windows, makes me think 'pilgrim'. I imagine that pilgrims walked that way in great numbers in the middle ages. I remember huddling on that church porch to get some shelter out of the cold and wet for a while to eat some lunch. I continue to be amazed at the settled and warm weather you have had most of the time!

    1. Hi Margaret, the warm settled weather is now cool and wet. We are expecting this to stay with us all the way to SJPP. Six days down the road. We were spoiled, but now the rain gear is seeing some use. All is well. Thanks for following along.

  2. Ah as soon as I saw your photograph of the Pyrenees my heart leapt and the pull of the Camino was there again. Thank you for sharing your journey as I feel I am walking quietly behind you in your shadows. God bless!