Day 60: Lugo to Ferreira (25 kms)

Departing Lugo, Puerta Carmen

Our stay in Lugo was great for catching up on our sleep, and for just resting in general. We had a very nice hotel, with the unique distinction of having a brothel (right on the Camino) a stone's throw away. As Robin and I would walk to the hotel we could see the furtive glances, and restrained gestures of transactions in progress. All involved were old and spent, but sadly could not either escape poverty, or resist the temptation. We watched as sagging arms welcomed another client into a pillow of ample flesh, then pivot discretely, and pass through a bleak doorway into the dim light beyond. Some things, sadly, never change. But, this was not all that made our stay in Lugo memorable. It appears that some sort of municipal workers strike was in progress, and the garbage hadn't been picked up or the streets swept in a month. In short the city was looking pretty grim. Robin and I have visited Lugo before, and despite its Great Wall, and remarkable cathedral, it has always seemed as though its best days were behind. This visit did nothing to change our minds. In fact we couldn't wait to leave. Even the Camino path out of the city was a mess. Instead of directing pilgrims to stay on the sidewalks until over the pedestrian bridge out of town, we were led down into an urban swath of sodden over grown, litter strewn, muck that eventually led us back onto the street that we never should have left. We picked up our walking pace to try and separate ourselves from this blight as soon as possible. Looking back at Lugo, hoping for something redeeming, it still just looked grim, and forlorn. We walked on, not without compassion, but without another glance behind. It was off to Ferreira.

The first 3 hours of walking were either along roads or on roads. We then found ourselves following markers that led us off the main road, onto some wooded paths, and then onto some quieter roads. We arrived in San Roman around 12:30, and stopped at the bar there something to drink. A few other pilgrims we either there or just arriving. Pushing off from there we followed the Roman Road (with Camino arrows but no shell markers) to Ferreira.

The walk from San Roman, once we topped the first hill, opened up a very pleasant vista of rolling Galician hills. We dropped down, and climbed up following the contours of this very lush countryside, thoroughly enjoying the beauty spread before us. We found ourselves on rural roads that were more like beautiful country lanes. It was quiet, save for the pleasant birdsong, and the cooling breeze rustling the tree tops above us. These were perfect walking conditions for us. The temperature today was near 70 F, with no rain. Can't get much better than that. We arrived in Ferreira at 2:45 and checked into the Casa Rural da Ponte. We were greeted by Manuel (owner), and got quickly settled in. Robin and I are now sipping some wine, in Manuel's garden, and looking at tomorrow's walk. Dinner is coming up, and Manuel just threw our wash into the dryer. All is not just well, but pretty close to perfect. We are blessed. Santiago is now just four days away. A little bit of rain is creeping into the forecast, but that is not an issue. Santiago here we come.

Camino path out of Lugo

Camino path before it got ugly

Pedestrian bridge out of Lugo

Threatening skies

A patch of blue

The roads we follow

The path

Into the Camino path

Mobil market

Bar at San Ramon

Climbing up

Arrival Casa Rural da Ponte

The Roman bridge

Close up

 

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Day 59: Cádavo Baleira to Lugo (30kms)

Camino path once the fog cleared

We left Cádavo with little sleep. Last night there was a bar having one hell of a party less than a block from our hotel. I reached for my ear plugs at 3:30 am, and they were still hitting it hard. Doesn't anybody have something to do on Monday other than nurse a hangover? Apparently not. As soon as the hotel reception opened the next day Robin, and I bolted for the door anxious to convert whatever energy we had remaining into kilometers gained towards Lugo. We didn't bother with breakfast or even coffee. We just wanted to get moving. The morning broke with the surrounding hills shrouded in mist, and (finally) a sepulchral quiet. We huffed and puffed up the hill out of town, and then enjoyed a series of downhills, and small hill climbs all the way to Lugo. We walked on a fair amount of roads today, but for the most part, they were quiet rural ones. The guide book says it's all downhill to Lugo, but that is not quite accurate, as several climbs came our way as we made our way towards Lugo. There really weren't many sights to see today. We did stop and admire the Church of Santa Maria in Vilabade. It had an unusual wide porch around it that probably sheltered pilgrims coming down the Primitivo in the 15th century. As we walk this Camino we have seen so many churchs, pilgrim hospitals, and shelters that connect us back to those many other pilgrims, who over the centuries past, found themselves walking these same trails. I find it to be very humbling to connect back across time like that.

I would like to say that the day slid blissfully by, but in truth, we had to dig deeply into inner reserves to reach Lugo. We were just tired, and our feet wanted to stop walking. But, there were more kilometers to go before that could happen. So, after about 7 hours of walking we finally snaked our way up to the city wall, through St. Peter's gate, and into the old city of Lugo. We are booked into the Hotel Pazo de Orbáne. Our plan is to lay over here for an extra day, and leave on Wednesday to continue our Camino. At this point we are planning to arrive in Santiago on July 6th. We are almost there.

Camino path

My girl

On the road to Lugo

First sight of Lugo

Lugo's city wall

St. Peter's gate

Home at last

 

 

 

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Day 58: Fonsagrada to Cádavo Baleira (24 kms)

Leaving Fonsagrada

We were in dry clothes and boots as we made our way out of town this morning. The owners of the albergue/hotel were kind enough to turn on the heat after yesterday's storm, and that allowed guests to get warm, but also allowed hard to dry things like boots to actually dry out. This albergue, with hotel rooms above it, is right next to the church. The albergue section is brand new, and has been open for about a month (so I was told). The owners were very accommodating, the facility was very clean, and the kitchen was fully stocked.

As we walked out the door the air temperature was 45 F. Yesterday it was 60 F. On went our rain jackets over long sleeve t shirts, and off we went. The Spanish forecast called for another rainy day, but they were wrong again. It stayed dry all day (no complaints). Today's stage was quite a mix of trail types, and grade changes. There were some quite steep climbs, that had some distance in them, and there were some long descents as well. It was an enjoyable day that let you know you had done some work by the end of it. There was a bar, right on the Camino, just before Paradavella, that made a perfect lunch stop. This was the first bar we had seen, since leaving Fonsagrada, so in we went. It was a jumping place as every pilgrim coming down the trail turned in for a drink or something to eat. Leaving there it was about another 12 kms to Cádavo. The trail wound around hillsides, cut through forests, challenged us on the uphills, and downhills, but in return, provided us with a quiet day in the hill country. We could see the change in the topography as the more mountainous terrain, of previous days, has now given way to the more rounded profiles of lower hills. Still these lower hills had some tough sections to handle. By the time we came upon Cádavo, and started our final descent into the town, both Robin and I were done. We walked past the municipal albergue that looked new and modern, and walked through town to the Hotel Moneda, where we booked in. Our laundry is now done, and we made the lunch service before it closed, so all is well. Tomorrow, we are off to Lugo. We intend to spend two days there as our arrival date in Santiago is still ahead of schedule.

Another windmill ridge to top

Pilgrim hospital

Pilgrims on the trail

Still going up

Lunch stop

Thoughtful trail marking

Into the woods

Follow that girl

Camino path

Typical Spanish bar

Down into Cádavo

 

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