Jan 15, 2013 Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes: Bucking a headwind
Trying to find heat at the pension
We spent a less than restful night in our pension in Fromista. The owner had the heat to the rented rooms turned off. When I asked her why, at 50 euros a night, my room should be 55F she launched into a broad explanation about solar water heating and lack of sun and the need for the shower to draw hot water from the radiators, etc. In the end, after she felt she had acquitted herself, she turned on the heat. Wow, what a battle. Needless to say, that as soon soon as we could we bade farewell and hustled onto the Camino. It was a cold morning (29F) but not much wind (that would change). I wore my usual t shirt, mid weight base layer, but added my light down jacket under my hard shell. That was a good call as the wind shortly picked up and did not relent until we turned off the Camino in Carrion de Los Condes.
We walked to Poblacion and stopped at the pension there to try and arrange a cup of coffee. Our two Spanish friends had overnighted there and were just leaving as we pulled up. They said their stay there was truly remarkable, with great food, genuine hospitality, and a clean warm room. The day was sunny, but without any warmth. The temps rose only to the mid 30's. The 20-25 mph westerly wind did all it could to keep Carrion de los Condes at arm's length. Absent the strong headwinds it would have been another beautiful day, but those winds sapped our strength and we arrived wind blown, and ready for a warm albergue. The nuns at Espiritu Santo did not disappoint. We quickly got registered and headed for the very hot showers. There is quite a nice restaurant just to left outside the back gate to the albergue. Our crew of four headed that direction and had a great lunch. Francisco, who kindly interprets for us, suggested the bacalao and garlic soup. Robin and I had that along with a bottle of vino tinto, and miraculously the world righted itself. Francisco, and his father Martin, suggested a carajillo to cap off the meal. This is a coffee infused drink that contains one of any number of alcoholic beverages. Ours was served in a small glass, cold, offering no provenance for the alcohol, but it was there (and it was great). They tell me that this is a typical working man's jump start to the day. This will now become the companion to my morning cafe on leche, as Robin and I prepare to head off to "work" on the Camino. We are off to Moratinos tomorrow (30kms). If the wind continues as it did today we might have to rethink our destination. On a side note, while we were enjoying our lunch, the tv aired a weather report from Navarra. I was shocked to see Roncesvalles under 2 feet of snow, with wide spread power outages. A couple of weeks ago we came though there with some light rain showers that quickly cleared as we made our way to Zubiri. The real shocker was that as we walked through Navarra we frequently had daytime highs of 70F. Now, 2 weeks later, there is a huge snowfall. Good luck planning for weather in Spain. Time for a siesta so we can digest lunch to make room for dinner. I admit this is can be a crazy, frustrating life, but then it can also be so enjoyable. I have swung to the enjoyable side for the moment. Off to bed.