Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Day 18: Baños de Montemayor to Fuenterrobles de Salvatierra (32.5 Kms)

Robin geared up for departure

Freezing temperatures cooled us as we climbed out of Baños this morning. It was yet another crystal clear morning. As we climbed we could see the sun trying to reach us on the distant hills. We pushed on anticipating a stage where most of the walking would be off road. We were not disappointed. It was a gorgeous fall day alive with color and light as we moved through the morning. It was just spectacular. On a side note just after Baños we crossed into Castille Léon. No drum roll just a waymark on this journey. We are still alone having seen no other pilgrims since we said goodbye to Hae in Plasencia. We climbed up to the somewhat worse for wear village of Calzada de Béjar right around 11:45. This appears to be a truly poverty stricken village. All the buildings seemed ready to topple over. At least those that hadn't already. We pushed on without stopping, as we couldn't see anything open. The second half of today's walk was through mostly flat ranch land with sizeable cattle herds. We saw a bunch of cowboys, without horses, yelling at cattle reluctant to follow orders. We just kept up a good pace and eventually raised Valverde de Valdelacasa where we found the Bar Santiago open but with a broken espresso machine. The kindly man at the bar told us he could produce two coffees (casero) in five minutes. True to his word he came back with one of those stove top espresso makers and served us two very fine cafe con Leches. We have a reservation in Fuenterrobles at the Casa Rural Familia Garcia. We called Señor Garcia from the next town, Valdelacasa, and he picked us up. This shortened today's walk by 7 Kms which was just fine with us. He whizzed us into town, handed the car keys to his wife who whizzed us to the Casa Rural. It is right on the Camino as you leave Fuenterrobles. A fire was going and the heat works so all is well. Tomorrow will be a 26 Kms day to San Pedro de Rozados. No short cuts are in the offing so off we will go. There is no wifi here and there is no Orange service so this will have to get posted from San Pedro. Buena noche from Fuenterrobles.

Baños de Montemayor
And then there was light
Approaching Calzada de Béjar


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