Saturday, December 5, 2015

Day 26: Tábara to Rionegro del Puente (54 Kms)

Leaving Calzadilla

We awoke to another day of mid 30's temperatures and thick fog. Our plan for today was as previously posted with one modification. Our taxi driver arrived on schedule but the route he wanted to take, due to the thick fog, took us closer to Calzadilla de Tera, so that is where he dropped us off. That chopped another 11 kms off today's planned walk from Santa Marta de Tera, and left us with a very manageable 17 kms to walk to get to Rionegro. We could get used to this. We left Calzadilla as we had departed several other villages in recent days, in thick fog but moderating temperatures. It was quite a fine walk. We stopped in Villar de Farfón to say hello to a South African guy, Craig, who along with his wife Dorothy, run a four bed albergue (Spring/summer only-no heat). We had been in touch with Craig to see if he had any albergue information for this area. He was very helpful and assured us we would find open albergues both in Rionegro and Asturianos. Unfortunately, when we passed by his house he was out shopping, but we shared a cup of coffee with his wife, Dorothy, and then carried on. Six people live full time in Farfón. Yes, it is a quiet village. We pressed on towards Rionegro, no pilgrims in sight, and after a fine (if brief) walk arrived in Rionegro, at 2:00 pm. We found the albergue and following the instructions in our guidebook went to the Restaurante "Me Gusta Comer" to pick up the keys. As we swung through the door it became obvious we would eat here. The dining room had a demonstration kitchen set up at the rear so all could watch the chef at work. He welcomed us, got us seated, brought our drinks and then hopped back into the kitchen. We had a fantastic meal (10 euros each) all included. This was not tenera and chips. It was a fantastic meal served with great care and joy. He wanted us to feel at home and to enjoy his food. This we did on both accounts. We are heading back for a mushroom risotto for dinner. What unexpected luxury. We are alone in a beautiful albergue. We have switched on the area heaters and I think we will be just fine. The fog has settled back in lowering the ceiling, shrinking the perimeter, and creating a very small intimate world. A pool of soft yellow light spills out from the Bar Palacio, where we are currently sheltered, onto the plaza. It's glow seems to act as a beacon bringing everyone inside to find warmth and joy in each other's company. We are happy to be part of this ad hoc celebration. Great fun. A fine day on the Via de la Plata.

Mass last night in Tábara
Holiday lights in Tábara
Calzadilla in the fog
Mi peregrina
Called in for a coffee
Crossing the dam
Craig and Dorothy's place
Robin and Dorothy
The path from Farfón to Rionegro
Albergue in Rionegro
Where to eat in Rionegro
Robin after a slightly cold shower



  1. Parador to "slightly cold shower" have to love a Camino. Keep smiling Robin. Take care. Dayton

    1. Being flexible is the key. St. Paul reminds us that "I have learned to live with and without." We sort of follow along with that guidance. Thanks for sharing this journey with us. Our best to you and Karen. Happy holidays.

      John and Robin